Day 13 - Belleek Pottery, Giants Causeway, Derry to Belfast

Out at the usual times this morning 7 for bags and brekkie and 8 to leave.

Our first stop not long after hitting the road was to Yeats grave in a local churchyard. Took the required photos and then we were off again to another local place, Belleek Pottery. I didn't know quite what to expect especially after Tom said we were getting a tour of the factory. It turned out to be really interesting. We were taken, by a lovely young lady, through all the steps of the process in making a jug; from making the mould to the final inspections. All the pottery here is hand made, hand painted and if there are any imperfections at quality inspection, it is smashed. They don't have 'seconds'. Of course, there was a trip to the shop afterwards. I was so tempted to buy a few pieces but restrained myself and only got some plaques with the Irish Blessing on them. It is lovely stuff.

After Belleek, we travelled for another hour or so to Derry. I wasn't really looking forward to this town after my impressions of the previous places like Killarney and Galway. However, Derry turned out to be far  more interesting, a 'real' town. It gets a lot of tourists but is not all about them. There are normal shops, normal businesses - no pubs or cafes on every corner, no Irish Music Here!, no souvenir shops everywhere. Old Derry is an old walled city. After going through the city gates, it was a steep walk up to the church at the top of the hill. A surprising find just up the road was a very old church St Augustine's  - on the same site as the original church which had been established in 542AD. We only had just over an hour to explore. Pity, as I am sure there was a lot more interesting stuff to be found.

In Ireland, 2% of the budget for roadworks is allocated to decoration so along the roads there will be statues on the traffic islands. All the roundabouts here are named and planted out with flowers and plants. Frequently, lightposts or railings have baskets of flowers attached. It is quite lovely.

Another hour and half up the road, we came to the Giant's Causeway; everyone was excited to go there. There is a large visitor centre which has been designed in a way that reflects the columns of the Causeway. From there it is a 20 minute walk, or 5 minute shuttle ride to the Causeway itself. We chose the shuttle - it was already paid for and the amount of time we had there didn't leave much for strolling to and from (up hill) the Causeway or taking further strolls on the tracks out from the main part. The column s were smaller than I imagined that they would be but still fascinating. We climbed all over them and onto the ones heading to the sea. They look flat but are very uneven to walk on and you need to take care, especially if they are wet. I enjoyed seeing the Causeway.

Another hour or so and we were in Belfast. We have only seen some industrial parts as we drove in. Tonight we are staying at the Stormont Hotel; a little out of the city but so luxurious. We have lucked out and been given a suite. It took a while to register what the odd room number meant. It means we have chairs and coffee tables, and rainshower plus a separate bath, Belleek cups and lots of room. And soft pillows.

Dinner I had tomato and basil soup, a little salty. Then gammon and vegetables, very salty. It is something I noticed here that they use a lot of salt in things. Makes it difficult when you aren't used to it.


 

Day 12 - Limerick to Sligo, Cliffs of Moher

We didn't see much of Limerick but it just looked like another version of Killarney - pubs, cafes etc.

Today is 7 bags and brekkie and 8 start as we head towards Sligo.

Firstly we drive to the Cliffs of Moher. High black cliffs climbing steeply out of the sea. Next stop across the ocean is USA and Canada.

The centre attached is cut deeply into the hillside. It is a calm day today however on the windy days, it would offer some protection.The re is a 5 minute walk to the cliffs, steadily up low stairs. At the end is a stone building which you can pay 2 Euro to get even higher if you want. The cliffs are already 700 feet above sea level. Past this is a fence with a notice warning that it is a working farm and no responsibility is taken by the farmer for losses or falls. They must have given up trying to keep people out. The cliffs are pretty impressive.

We drive past the Burren, stony hillsides that had their topsoil removed by glaciers thousands of years ago. The soil is poor and little grows here. There are random stone fences built up the Burren. They were constructed during the Famine as a means to give people some work rather than just accept charity.

Next stop is Galway. There is a hurling final there today and the streets are adorned with red and white flags for the local team. It is very busy. Other than that, it is just like Killarney and Limerick - nothing really distinguishes the town. It is just for tourists.

After this we travel on to Knock. Now this was something a bit different. Back in 1879 , 15 people witnessed an apparation which was given the nod by the church. Today there is a huge modern building, that booms out mass (?) or some service across the surrounding area. There are buildings for books to buy, to learn how to pray, stone things where people cross themselves with water, and the most bizarre wall decorations. It is like a religious theme park - Apparition World. Quite, quite strange.

Tonight we are staying outside of Sligo at Radisson Blu. Dinner is included and we have a relaxing night planned.

Day 11 - Ring of Kerry, Knappogue Castle

Back to the normal starts of 7am bags and breakfast, and 8am start. We are heading to Limerick.

Today we drive around 100 miles of the Ring of Kerry. The scenery is better than yesterday and the weather is much better.

The bogs - they are everywhere. Low lying, with low grass and no trees. People cut the turf and dry it to use as fuel (peat) although most these days use coal. The western side of Ireland has poor soil for growing things. I guess that explains why it is so tourist orientated.

Nothing really stands out about the day. In between scenery highlights, most people doze. There are a few with bad coughs now. 

Hay - everywhere we have been recently, England, Wales, Ireland, there have been bales of hay lying in the fields ready for winter. They cut the grass and roll it up into big 'wheels' of hay. Then they are encased in black plastic. I guess that means they don't have to store it undercover.

Tonight we stay in Limerick at Clarion Hotel. It is right on the river Shannon and the tallest building around.

We have opted to go on the optional excursion tonight. A medieval banquet at Knappogue Castle. It is a good 30 minute drive from the hotel. Once there, we are greeted at the door by a costumed butler and maid. Inside we are given cups of mead, and offered a taste of brown bread that you dip into salt before eating. Odd combination but not unpleasant. We are entertained by two girls in costume - one playing harp and the other violin - then by a group of girls singing.

After some preamble by the  butler and maid, we are shown into the main hall for dinner. There are long tables set with only knife and fork for cutlery, a pottery bowl and cup. There are also jugs of white and red wine, water and large platters of brown bread, and a dish of butter. The jugs and platters are frequently refilled throughout the night and some members of our party get very merry. A little different to the one included drink that we usually get. First course is salmon and salad; we keep our cutlery. Then soup (tomato with herbs, delicious) is served from large jugs into our bowls. We drink it from the bowls - no spoons. After this we get chicken cooked in wine with plentiful vegetables. I can;t eat it all - so much food! Dessert is a lovely apple cheesecake dish - again I can't finish it.

After dinner, we are entertained by the same people who did the earlier entertaining and also the serving. Some of the guests have been dubbed as kings and queens for the night, and there is a villain who is punished - must sing a song.

The night was very enjoyable and possibly the best we have had so far. We finally arrive back at the hotel close to 11pm.

Day 10 - Dingle Peninsula

Back to earlier starts today with breakfast at 7:15 and leaving at 8 for a drive along the Dingle Peninsula. It is a grey and misty morning.

As we drive there is a bright rainbow ahead of us. It is quite a challenge for everyone to get photos of it through the bus windows.

A lot of the area on the peninsula was used in the film Ryan's Daughter like Inch Beach. The hedgerows are beginning to change to the stone walls to divide fields.

There is a steep climb up the hills with the bus frequently stopping and then slowly inching past the cars on the other side of the narrow road. One bend is called the Devil's Elbow due to how hard it is for a large vehicle to go around. We creep around but the bus crunches on something - we never find out just what. The road drops sharply away down the cliffs and it is a bit nerve wracking for those of us on that side of the bus.

Funniest sight, and as it turns out, highlight of the day is the rolling sheep. They are penned in paddocks that slope steeply towards the cliff edge. As I watched, one sheep laid down. Next moment he is belly up and slowly rolling down the hill. He stuck out his legs straight to stop himself. Very funny.





On side of the road in one part are stone huts called beehives which were monk;s cells. There are many ruined cottages along the sides on the road. They are small - just one room wide and sometimes only one or two long. We are headed to the Blasket Islands Centre. These islands just off the coast were abandoned in the 1950s. The people who had lived on them spoke Gaelic as their first language and lived very simply, the same way the ancestors had for years before them. When the weather is rough it is not possible to get to or from the island, and this prompted the forced abandonment as no health services could be accessed. The Centre is ok - there is a short film which I expected to be about their way of life but turned out to be more about the authors that the islands had spawned.

We stop at Dingle Bay for lunch. There is a dolphin there called Fungie who likes to interact with people. We didn't see him. I try to local award winning ice cream called Murphys. It doesn't seem that special to me. I am stuffed from all the food we are eating and throw half of it away. Dingle, like so many of the other places we stop at, is just geared towards tourists. Cafes, bars and souvenir shops abound.

When we get back, we do a laundry run. The laundries open at 9ish and close around 6 - not very tourist orientated. The still damp washing is draped all around our room.

Tonight we had an included dinner at Danny Mann pub. There is singing afterwards but we don't stay to hear it. I really don't feel very well and we both decide an early night would be good. Today was really a nothing day and the least enjoyable so far. Mile after mile of the same countryside. At first it was all new and nice but the steady drone of the bus motor and the passing miles soon saw most of us dozing off.

Killarney's biggest industry for the past 250 years is tourism and it shows.  The streets are just full of the same things - pubs, cafes, souvenir type shops, one after the other. It is not like seeing a normal town at all. Quite disappointing.

Day 9 - Muckross House, Siamsa Tire

Another late start with breakfast at 8:30 and no bags out. Today is a free day in Killarney however we have chosen to do the optional excursion which starts at 10:05am.

First a ride in a jaunting cart; basically a buggy that seated 6 of us, pulled by Rosie, our pretty black cart horse and guided by the sure hand of Michael. Michael was happy to answer any and all questions as we jaunted through the Killarney National Park. It was quite enjoyable and something different for a change.

Michael and Rosie dropped us off at the lake edge. We assumed that the large boat was to be our vehicle but no, it was a much smaller one with an outboard motor. And lifejackets which had the extra benefit of keeping us a little warmer. It was freezing out on the lakes. We motored along for a long time - seemed like hours (perhaps because of the cold) but was probably more like 45 minutes. It was a little too long; on a warmer day I would have enjoyed it more. The boatman told us how the rhododendrons are taking over one island pushing out the native trees. They were like a solid wall to the water's edge. The water is around 10 metres at the deepest part and quite black. It was surprisingly warm to the touch but I suspect you would be freezing if you fell in.

We disembarked at the ruined Innisfallen Abbey with Muckross House, a short walk away. There was a provided guide who lectured us about the house as we walked from room to room. He did a good job and I didn't find it too long or tedious as some of these things can be, particularly audio guides. The house was basically shut up for decades before being reopened about 30 years ago. About 60% of the furniture in it is original to the house. The most interesting part was seeing the nursery wing and the servants area. So many of these house tours omit the day to day things like these. The original bells are still up on the walls, used to summon the servants to various rooms. After the house tour, we had free time to walk the gardens and get something to eat and drink.

Tonight's optional was a dinner and a visit to Siamsa Tire theatre. This shows stories in song and dance about Ireland's heritage. The musicians were very good especially the fiddle player. It was sung in Gaelic so very hard to follow and I found myself getting quite restless towards the end. Still, a different experience.

It is relaxing to know we don't have to worry about bags tomorrow. We need to get some washing done.

Day 8 - Waterford, Blarney, Killarney

After a good breakfast at the Granville, we set out for Blarney. Today's times - 7:45 for bags and breakfast, Leave 8:45.

Our first stop is at Youghall, a harbour town. There is a cafe which was used in 1954 version Moby Dick there.  A pretty little harbour.

At Blarney Castle we are given our tickets to enter. There are extensive gardens before you get to the castle itself. One intriguing thing is that a lot of the trees on the way had socks on - no explanation, just these knitted socks up the trunks.

Inside the first room of the castle, the Great Hall, you go up a solid wooden staircase to the next level. As the walk up has already been quite steep, you find yourself high above the gardens below. The next part, going up to the Blarney Stone, involves a narrow, stone, spiral staircase. I have a sudden attack of claustrophobia and can't go up it. I head back down to the gardens.

The old spiral staircases always go anti clockwise. This gives any righthander coming up a disadvantage as they can't wield a sword properly with the stone wall so close to their sword arm.

Down below I can see, high above me, where the people are leaning back to kiss the stone. There is no way I would have been bending backwards over a gap four stories high. Then there is the thought of all the people ahead of me who have kissed it .....

Part of the grounds has a Poison Garden displaying all kinds of poisonous plants. They are very well marked and some surprise me, like Black Cohosh.

 We visit Waterford Crystal on the way to the hotel. I contribute to the economy of Ireland with my purchases being posted home for me. Crystal is definitely not something I want to be carrying around for the next couple of weeks.

We are staying at Scotts Hotel, Killarney for the next 3 nights. It is in the centre of town so very convenient. The room is much smaller than others we have had, and there are the usual hard beds and pillows.

Day 7 - Wales to Waterford

The Newport Hilton is in the middle of nowhere. It is the worst hotel we have stayed at so far. Desperately in need of refurbishment. There is no place close to get something to eat so we opt for some food from the bar which turns out to be surprisingly edible. That was after discovering that the same food from room service incurred a 5 Eu charge. It is a late start today - Breakfast and luggage at 8, and leaving at 9.

This morning we set out to travel through Wales to Fishguard where we will catch the ferry crossing St Georges Channel to Ireland. The countryside is so green. It is hard to believe it is the end of summer when this whole island is just green, green, green. All the road signs are in Welsh and English. One thing that strikes me is how polite the drivers are in the UK. There is little horn honking or rude gestures. People stop to let others through - they signal this by flashing their lights. Even in heavy traffic, I haven't seen close calls or ignorant driving. Refreshing.

We haven't seen much of Welsh towns and only a little of the countryside. It isn't very different to the English countryside we have recently travelled through.The road signs are in both English and Welsh which makes for interesting reading.

All the farms we have seen have hedgerows between the fields rather than fences. Once, the whole of the island would have been covered in this low scrub, under the huge canopy of trees. The hedgerows are kept because they are important. They are used by wildlife, from insects to foxes, to travel and for shelter. This is why the farmers keep them instead of using fences.

The ferry is big and a huge difference to the one we crossed to Greece in. This is clean and spacious and doesn't smell of engine oil. It was quite cold up on the deck so we spent most of the three hour journey inside. The coffee was dreadful. We dock in Ireland at Rosslare.

We have checked into the Granville Hotel, in Waterford. It is a beautiful old building with a lot of history. The duty manager came aboard the bus to welcome us and tell us about the evening's arrangements for dinner. Dinner was superb. Beautifully prepared and served professionally by the waiters. The bathroom has a towel warmer, not currently needed, the towels are soft and fluffy. Besides the usual tea and coffee, there are biscuits and mineral water.

Dinner was wonderful. After dinner there is an Irish coffee making demonstration. We all get one afterwards. It was smooth but I found it a bit strong.